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Andiamo, Lower Leigh Road, Westhoughton

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BASED in the former Three Crowns pub, the building was given a six-figure makeover to transform it into a restaurant around two and a half years ago.

As a result, Andiamo has a winning formula of sleek, modern design, combined with the welcoming familiarity of a "local".

The first thing to strike you as you park up behind the building is the smell - a combination of garlic, wine and herbs that must draw in locals like moths to a flame.

We arrived early and, with trade still light, the high ceilings made the atmosphere a little cold and prone to echo.

But we soon lost ourselves in the menu, which contained a mind-boggling array of pizzas, pastas and variations on chicken and steak which made for a difficult choice.

There was a fairly standard selection of starters, such as salads, whitebait, breaded mushrooms, bruschetta and soup.

But I looked no further than the king prawns in tomato and garlic sauce, which caught my eye.

I was glad it did. Their texture was perfect, firm to the bite but remaining tender and the sauce was a perfect complement.

My girlfriend Clara had a rich and powerful home-made chicken liver pate, served on toast and with a refreshingly tasty salad.

By this stage, the house was packed and the bustle of voices - against background music that never drowned you out - brought the place to life.

The staff were attentive throughout but never overbearing.

A half-litre of house merlot, which at £6.99 represented great value, was slipping down quite nicely and proved the perfect foil for the steak I'd ordered as a main.

A huge fillet, cooked to pink-centred perfection, it came with a sauce where the sweetness of tomatoes and white wine was balanced against the tang of capers and olives.

Meanwhile, Clara enjoyed a mountain of penne with suitably zingy arabiatta sauce and plenty of pepperoni. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it left her defeated long before it was finished but at £6.50 it would be a great option for a cheap and quick evening meal.

A coffee rounded off the night nicely and the bill came in at £42 - fantastic value for such a great night.

Andiamo, 152 Lower Leigh Road, Westhoughton BL5 2EH. Tel: 01942 895917.

Opening times: 6pm to 11.30pm, Tuesday to Sunday.

Food: 8.5/10 Service: 8/10 Surroundings: 8/10

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