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The Little Door Bistro, Chorley New Road, Bolton.

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IN a previous life this restaurant was known as Vettriano's but now it has been reborn as the Little Door Bistro - and boy what a rebirth.

Situated next door to the popular Mai Thai restaurant and Firefly wine bar this is a little gem of an eaterie offering superb food at really competitive prices.

Inside, the deep red decor, matched with comfortable green seating cushions, might sound naff but actually creates an intimate cocooning experience.

It was a wet Tuesday when we went but there were around 15 or so other diners all clearly enjoying the convivial atmosphere.

Unlike many other similar fixed price menus, this is available all night and every night at £11.95 for two courses or £14.95 for three.

Starters include mushroom soup, or confit of duck leg or butter glazed horse shoe black pudding with mustard sauce.

I chose the golden smoked haddock and mozzarella fishcake on crisp salad leaves with a home made tartare sauce while my wife opted for a trio of melon pearls drizzled with a Malibu and ginger syrup.

My fishcake was crisp and light and the haddock combined with the mozzarella cheese was a marriage made in culinary heaven, with the accompanying tartare sauce tasty without being overpowering. In short it was delicious.

My wife thought her melon starter was superb and the accompanying fruit cocktail light and refreshing - adding a little piquancy to the smooth melons.

Main courses on offer include sirloin steak - but that attracts a supplement of £4.

Other mains include beetroot marinated salmon fillet or a salad of plum tomato and goat's cheese.

My original choice of braised shoulder of lamb was off but was replaced by oven roasted Barbary duck breast served with a plum sauce.

I chose that and wasn't disappointed as the generous slices of pink duck were cooked to perfection complemented by the intensely flavoured plum sauce.

My wife chose oven baked chicken breast wrapped in Parma ham laid over crushed new potatoes. Unusually for her she polished the lot off declaring the chicken succulent and tasty.

We shared mixed vegetables which included potatoes, carrots and green beans which were the plainest part of the meal.

Desserts were substantial - the sweetness of my Bailey's dark chocolate torte with fresh fruit coulis was offset nicely by the scoop of vanilla ice cream.

My wife's smooth vanilla panacotta with mint sprigs and fruit coulis was doubly impressive, delivered as it was in the shape of a flower - the taste of which equalled the impressive presentation.

Throughout the evening the food was superbly presented with each dish being a mini work of art and service was pitched just right - attentive without being intrusive.

We washed the lot down with a nice bottle of Lindemans deep fruity red wine which, at £14.95, was good value. The bill, which also included one coffee, came to £48.30, great value given the outstanding quality of the food.

A couple of minor quibbles; one being the toilets don't match the high standards of the rest of the restaurant, but given the attention to quality I'm sure the management already has that in hand, and secondly, there wasn't much choice for vegetarians - though that is easy to solve.

The Little Door Bistro, Newlands, 321 Chorley New Road, Bolton. Tel: 01204 840040.

Opening hours: 5pm till late. Closed Sundays and Mondays but plans to open Mondays soon.

Food: 8.5/10 Service: 8/10 Surroundings: 8/10

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