12:53pm Thursday 9th April 2009
By Kat Dibbits
WHEN it comes to eating out, there are restaurants, and then there are palaces of gastronomic delight. Stanley House Hotel’s Cassis Restaurant, which they have very kindly opened to the public, falls into the latter category.
The cooking is modern British, which is rare enough in a country where it seems we can be very good at cooking Italian, Spanish, Chinese and Indian food, but are sadly lacking when it comes to our native cuisine.
To start, we had Cassis’ take on two traditional dishes — liver and onions (£14) and ham and eggs (£12). The liver and onions were in the form of a piece of roast foie gras, topped with “textures of the onion family” (you know it’s posh when you’re not sure if the description is the food or a piece of abstract poetry) and a balsamic sauce, and if you can put your ethical quandaries aside is as fine a combination of flavours as you’re ever likely to taste.
The ham and eggs were equally adventurous, consisting of pressed smoked ham hock, “piccalilli flavours” and poached quails’ eggs.
Mouths watering, we awaited our main courses. Cassis’ A La Carte menu changes with the seasons and of course all the ingredients are as fresh as can possibly be.
I had a piece of venison (£26) which tasted as good and meaty as game should be. An additional bolognese sauce accentuated the strong flavour — maybe not to everyone’s taste, but for game lovers it was pure heaven.
Steak and chips (£28) was a beautiful piece of aged Cumbrian sirloin, served with hand cut chips and peppercorn and bearnaise sauce.
Save some space for the dessert menu as their Artist’s Palette (£7.50) of ice creams and sorbets will make your tastebuds weep with gratitude for their own existence. No more supermarket own-brand after this. In fact, if Cassis has one flaw, it’s that it makes all the other food you are ever likely to taste seem a little bit disappointing.
I’ve not even had time to discuss the wine list, which without expert help could leave you undecided for hours. We left ourselves in the capable hands of the sommelier, who hit the mark with every course.
Yes, it’s expensive. Yes, it’s over the top. Yes, it’s easier just to pop out for a curry. But if you really want to treat your senses then splash out at Cassis. It’ll be worth every penny.
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