There are no limits to meaty challenge (From The Bolton News)

There are no limits to meaty challenge

5:16pm Thursday 16th April 2009 in

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Bem Brasil, Northern Quarter, 58 Lever Street, Manchester, M1 1FJ.

Tel: 0161 923 6888 Opening hours: Monday-Saturday noon-10.30pm/Sunday 1pm-10.30pm £12.50 menu at lunchtime. £19.50 per head evenings (approximate 90 minute sitting) Kids welcome during the afternoon and weekdays (not Fri/Sat/Sun nights) BEM Brasil, hidden away on the edge of Manchester’s Northern Quarter district, boasts proudly that it is a restaurant that doesn’t believe in limits.

Holding a similar gastronomic philosophy myself, I decided to give it a whirl. Now I can say with hand on heart, they are definitely not kidding.

Firstly, this establishment, known until recently as Pau Brasil, is not the kind of place to visit if you prefer a nice nut roast to a sirloin steak. A carnivore’s paradise, there are limited vegetarian options available — and some might well be out of this world — but to sit down and order an asparagus tart would be like asking Heston Blumenthal to serve you up beans on toast.

The small, but perfectly formed eatery is a traditional Brazilian Churrascaria, or steak house, which serves up succulent cuts of beef, pork, fish and poultry in a way us Brits can usually only dream about.

The premise is simple. Subscribe to the ‘service rodizio’ or continuous service buffet and all you need to do is find a comfortable spot, loosen your belt, and let the friendly — and sometimes downright competitive waiters do the rest.

For £19.50 a head, you can gorge to your heart’s content, or perhaps discontent in this case.

There is a satisfactory selection of Brazilian accompaniments to choose from including various themes of rice, pastas, salads and potatoes, presented on a salad bar-style island in the centre of the building.

But it is at the table where the serious work begins.

You are given an empty plate and a paddle, one side of which is green (go), the other red (stop). Waiters circle the room with huge skewers of tasty chargrilled meats and if you have indicated that you want more, they slice off as much or as little of the given food as you like.

The menu claims 15 different skewers are available but on this night about eight or nine different offerings were on the go at once.

Among those delights that passed my lips were rump and sirloin beef steak, pork tenderloin, lamb, sausages, chicken wrapped in bacon and — in a refreshing move away from former animals — grilled pineapple.

All are cooked in a giant barbecue in the corner of the room by a burly chef more than willing to pose for photos, especially if one of your party is dressed as Bananaman (don’t ask).

What started as a sprint, soon descended into a true test of eating stamina — egged on at every venture by the superb staff who really help to make it a fun night.

The caipirinha cocktails may have helped too.

The experience is best enjoyed as a group, not least because you may need assistance to get back to your car.

Quite how the likes of Pele, Zico or Kaka managed to climb to the top of the footballing tree if this is how they eat in their home country is beyond me.