Swanky fun at Malmaison
11:14am Friday 18th June 2010 in Eating Out By James Higgins
Swanky fun at Malmaison
Malmaison Brasserie
Piccadilly
Manchester, M1 1LZ
0161 278 1000
Email: Manchester@malmaison.com
SUBDUED lighting, funky music and pristinely turned out waiting staff.
It sounds like the sort of place that would serve up cracking food, then ruin it all by dishing up a three-figure bill at the end.
It’s fair to say that when me and my wife stepped into the Malmaison Brasserie in Manchester I feared the worst for my wallet.
Luckily, I was pleasantly surprised when the bill arrived, despite the fact it had on it the three words I have come to hate when eating out — service charge included.
Cheeky buggers!
Liberties aside, there was very little to bemoan about our meal at the Malmaison. Its a bordeline-pretentious place, but staff make diners feel at ease and the laid-back music and atmosphere add to the convivial feel.
The eating out market in Manchester passed saturation point some time ago. But while other places have opened in a blaze of glory, only to shut months later, trade at the Malmaison has remained steady.
Crusty warm bread and olives were delivered to the table as we browsed the menu. They weren’t free, I should point out.
We started proceedings with soup de jour (it was mushroom) for my wife, while I plumped for a ham hock salad. Both were delicious; the soup creamy and flavoursome, the salad with a lively seasoning and tender pieces of ham. A little more meat among the leaves certainly wouldn’t have gone amiss, however.
The mains were a slightly different prospect, still delicious, but a little more generous in portion size. I wolfed down the cooked-to-perfection onglet steak frites — that’s steak and chips — to you and I.
The meat was lean and melted in the mouth, while the chips were crispy and lightly salted.
Mrs Higgins indulged in a creamy fish pie. It was a bit on the salty side if truth be told, but it was packed with various catches and still plate-lickingly wonderful. I must stress she did not lick her plate however — etiquette and all.
We gave our main courses a healthy kick with a side order of seasonal veg which was crunchy and seasoned with a little butter.
There was plenty on offer, but we opted to skip a full-on dessert and opt for coffees because they came accompanied by chocolate pots. Needless to say they were delicious.
We sidestepped the wine menue — Mrs H is expecting — which gave me the perfect chance to sink a few pints. Excellent news.
The bill was just over £60. Not bad for a meal for two in a swanky eaterie.
Food ****
Service ****
Value for money ***
Atmosphere ****
