9:11am Thursday 2nd September 2010
GIVEN the fact we have tried three times previously to eat at San Carlo and failed, proves they must be doing something right. This time, the reservation was procured by email a mere three weeks prior — with 6pm being the only time available.
Based on authentic modern Italian cuisine, the Manchester branch is one of five in the chain, which has won no fewer than 11 awards and has been cited by The Times as “one of the top 10 Italian restaurants in the UK”.
The light, airy restaurant can seat up to 200 people and there is also a stylish bar area with a cocktail menu that changes monthly.
A huge basic menu that follows the traditional Italian format appeared immediately, as well as another of almost the same size featuring daily specials. There was no shortage of choice, but the time to read it was the problem with over-exuberant waiters desperate to take your order barely before you’d been seated.
Gorgeous antipasti platters, with mixed Italian salami and Parma ham, artichoke and fried pecorino cheese were very popular; also smoked salmon with shallots and capers. My partner seriously considered the avocado with crab and smoked trout in Marie Rose sauce, horseradish and sunblush tomatoes, but we shared Marinata Di Verdure “Alla Griglia”, chargrilled aubergines, courgettes and peppers marinated in mint, garlic, chilli and oil, with buffalo mozzarella and parsley, as well as a decent-sized portion of really succulent garlic mushrooms in a basket of filo pastry.
It is hard not to feel admiration for the kitchen staff as the food comes out incredibly fast, but even with the waiters rushing past your table at a rate of knots, San Carlo still manages to retain a laid-back feel.
The wine list is predominantly Italian, but with Chardonnay at £17, reasonable, although connoisseur’s options go up to almost £200 for a decent red.
My choice of Pasta Alla Norma was named as “the most popular pasta dish in Southern Italy”, and was a brilliant combination of aubergines, tomatoes, basil and garlic topped with pecorino cheese. The actual pasta was probably the best I’ve ever had and cooked perfectly al dente.
Mind you, the show-stopper, which had diners agape, was Vanessa’s main course of Shellfish Royale. Artfully constructed with wooden kebab sticks and several half-lemons, it was a tower of roasted giant prawns, langoustines, crevettes, scallops, clams and mussels, all dripping in garlic butter. Described by Vanessa as a divine culinary love affair, it definitely required a finger bowl and several napkins.
A proper pudding was definitely out of the question for us, but we did opt for a couple of traditional Limoncello digestifs — the people on the next table were happily tucking into a huge slab of chocolate cake and also Crostata Al Frutti Di Bosco, a custard cream-filled tart, topped with fruits of the forest, which did look very appetising.
Although there is a very fast throughput of diners, which could easily put you off, San Carlo certainly lived up to its reputation and the food was impeccable at a total cost £87.
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