On the quiet side of Cyprus
7:20am Saturday 2nd January 2010 in Leisure
Clambering through a castle which sweeps up high above a steep hilltop in Northern Cyprus, I could see why its magical ruins are believed to have helped inspire Walt Disney’s film Sleeping Beauty.
As I sat on a rock by St Hilarion Castle, I looked down on the fairytale surroundings below, including the labyrinth of rooms and tunnels which almost appear to have grown out of the rocks.
Northern Cyprus, with its unspoiled natural beauty, has much to attract Britons, whether you want to explore the coastlines, relax on the beaches or get up close among ancient ruins.
British pensioners love the place — many escape the UK winters and enjoy the spending power of the Turkish lira.
At the crossroads of three continents, Cyprus is known for its natural romance and charm. According to legend, it was once given to Cleopatra by Julius Caesar as a token of his affection.
The laidback Turkish side of the island has few traces of mass tourism. Northern Cyprus enjoys long, hot Mediterranean summers, when temperatures reach a pleasant 35C, while winters are mostly mild.
The unhurried pace is reflected in its nightlife, so think more of cosy bars and restaurants than the pounding club scene of the south.
A starting point in the north for any visitor is Kyrenia, with a horseshoe-shaped harbour. You can enjoy an evening drink outside one of the restaurants at the water’s edge and take in the unhurried surroundings.
My first stop was the Malpas Hotel, in hills outside the village of Catalkoy and five miles east of Kyrenia. I also stayed at the elegant Colony Hotel, centrally located in Kyrenia with a pool on its roof and great views.
Further afield, a few miles east of Kyrenia, is the gothic abbey at Bellapais. The village is immortalised in the book Bitter Lemons Of Cyprus by Lawrence Durrell, brother of naturalist Gerald Durrell, which recounts his tales of moving to Cyprus in the 1950s. The abbey is one of the monuments to the numerous civilisations which have been established on the island.
The main part was built between 1198-1205 by King Hugh III of France, with Italian frescoes at the entrance of the chapel dating to the 15th century.
Travellers can take their time wandering through the narrow streets of Bellapais, with its boutiques and restaurants. In the main square, stands what Durrell named The Tree of Idleness.
Visitors can make the walk up to St Hilarion Castle where t he views are stunning, but you need a pair of sturdy, flat shoes to explore the nooks and crannies. The castle is thought to have been named after a holy man and hermit who lived there and was possibly buried there in the eighth century AD.
Those who want to further explore Northern Cyprus’s history can visit Salamis, an important trading centre dating back to the 11th century BC. Tourists wander around the ruins of a huge Roman complex featuring baths and a theatre which would have held 15,000 spectators.
The stamp of different cultures over the centuries means that local food takes in a mix of influences.
The traditional meze, made up of hot and cold appetisers including salads, meat and fish, is a particular attraction, washed down with a Turkish coffee.
Getting around by car is also straightforward for Brits, as motorists drive on the left-hand side of the road. Standard car hire costs little over £20 per day.
But while the natural beauty of Northern Cyprus is undeniable, its political past casts a shadow on the island. The scars of its recent history, including barbed wire, abandoned buildings and the presence of troops, are still visible. Cut off from the Greek side of the island since 1974, the north has been in political limbo for decades. Turkey grabbed it in response to a Greek-backed military coup aimed at union with Athens.
But Turkish occupation of the area has seen it shunned by the international community, limiting cultural and economic links with the outside world.
A “Green Line” divides the two parts from Morphou through Nicosia to Famagusta, and the contrast between the more well-heeled south compared with the less-developed north is marked. But Britons who love the place turn a blind eye to things like this.
They delight in a sunny climate virtually year-round and the lack of the over-commercialisation evident on many stretches of the Mediterranean coastline.
