3:40pm Wednesday 27th January 2010
THIS might be a controversial statement, but it’s possible that Ludlow is the most fashionable place in Britain.
Before you scoff, let’s look at the evidence. We are constantly hearing about clone towns that all look the same.
Yet with the exception of one major supermarket, the charming streets of Ludlow are filled entirely with independent shops selling unusual gifts, vintage finds and the kind of interior decorations that would make any fashionista salivate.
There is also a marvellously imposing, ruined mediaeval castle that sits on a big hill overlooking the town and plenty of other lovely pieces of architecture, which has led to Broad Street having been described as “the most beautiful street in Britain”.
It might be in sleepy Shropshire, but Ludlow is also populated with young people who appear to have stepped straight out of the pages of a fashion magazine — despite the fact that there’s not a Topshop in sight.
For gastronomes there are some of the country’s finest chefs — over the last few years there have been seven restaurants in or near the tiny town with entries in the Michelin guide — not to mention the smaller eateries that, while not Michelin-starred, boast menus to make your tastebuds dance for joy.
And seemingly every pub we walked past had speciality beers, live music and a level of class rarely found on a Saturday night out on Bradshawgate.
We stayed in the lovely surroundings of Fishmore Hall, which was a short drive from the centre of town.
A beautifully restored Georgian manor house, Fishmore Hall has just 25 rooms, guaranteeing that the service will be good.
The rooms and decor were simple and modern, which gave it a European feel, although some more homely touches would have been appreciated.
What really draws people to Fishmore Hall is its restaurant. Head chef Marc Hardiman trained with Gordon Ramsay, and it shows.
The canapes, including tiny quail’s eggs and melt-in-the-mouth cheese wafers, hinted at the joys ahead.
I started with a Cornish crab and coriander salad, while my boyfriend had foie gras. The mains were slow roast chump of lamb with gnocchi, sauteed sweetbread and confit shallot for me; and quail served as poached and roasted breast and farced leg with wild mushrooms and sherry for him. Both were utterly gorgeous. I was a grown-up and chose the artisan cheese to finish, which meant I was left seething with jealousy at my boyfriend’s chocolate delice, which included a shot of pineapple juice drunk through a vanilla straw — a trick I intend to repeat at a dinner party as soon as possible.
The menu changes seasonally, with the a la carte menu now offering delights including braised pig cheek, wood pigeon terrine and partridge.
It was with some reluctance that we left Ludlow and its charming streets, fabulous food and well-dressed population behind.
A tiny treasure trove, I hope to be able to return to soon.
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