SINCE it first opened its doors, Paul Heathcote's Longridge Restaurant has been regarded as a bastion of good food in the North-west.

It's no surprise. His passion for local produce manifests itself in a menu of delightful dishes, which since 1991 has earned the eaterie a coveted Michelin Star.

That flirtation with the holy grail of food world accolades ended with a sharp bump this year when the Bolton-born chef was left "flabbergasted" at a decision by Michelin to withdraw it.

But rather than allow, what is undoubtedly a massive set back, to dampen enthusiasm, the celebrity chef has upped his game - with a revamp of the restaurant's decor and the installation of a new chef.

James Holah, formerly a sous-chef at Gordon Ramsey's Claridges restaurant in London, joined the team at The Longridge Restaurant in January.

He has a simple mantra; to provide the customer with great food and great service - and he succeeds in his aims.

We ate at the restaurant on a Friday evening. It was surprisingly quiet - a sign perhaps that the public's long-term love affair with Heathcote's flagship restaurant is faltering.

That shouldn't be the case. Our eating experience exceeded anything we have experienced in the last few years.

The presentation of our dishes was immaculate; creative without being overly extravagant. My wife started with a mushroom ravioli with creamed leeks, red wine reduction and Parmesan foam, while I plumped for the terrine of chicken with black pudding, ham hock and truffle mayonnaise, both £8.50.

Both starters were ample in size and tantalizingly good - but you'd expect nothing less.

Our main courses, £20 each, arrived, both looking a little bit on the small side in terms of portion size.

But, appearances can be deceptive and there was plenty of meat on my saddle of lamb, which came with a tasty herb crust and was served with baby onions, beetroot and spinach. My wife's fish pie was deceptively deep filled with chunks of salmon and haddock and topped with a creamy fondant potato.

Chef Holah certainly knows his way around the kitchen.

I'm not a man with a sweet tooth, but the raspberry soufflé I selected for dessert was light and incredibly tasty; my wife's rhubarb dessert, served with homemade shortbread and raspberries was similarly sublime. Both were £6.50.

In just a short space of time Holah has managed to carve out a reputation as a chef who cares; who wants people to enjoy their dining experience and who holds a genuine regard for comments, good or otherwise, that customers might want to make.

The Longridge Restaurant must surely be well on the way to reclaiming its lost Michelin Star and is a worth a visit, despite the drive.

It takes less than an hour to reach from Bolton, and the quality is worth the travel time.

Price wise, it is not the cheapest of places to eat - our bill including a half bottle of 2003 Burgundy Chablis came to £78.50, but I have always been a firm believer in the saying you get what you pay for.

The one criticism I would make of the restaurant is the lack of subtle background music. A library-esque silence fills the air, with only the murmur of voices and clinking of cutlery to cut through it.

By no means a reason to avoid the Longridge Restaurant, but a point of order for its management to consider.

The Longridge Restaurant, 104-106 Higher Road, Longridge. Tel: 01772 784969.

Opening hours: Tues-Fri, noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm; Sat, 5pm-10pm; Sun, noon to 9pm.

Food: 9/10 Service: 9/10 Surroundings: 8/10