WHEN most people think of Holland, they think of Amsterdam, windmills, cafes, clogs and tulips. But there is another side to this magnificent country which is still largely undiscovered by the British traveller.

The historic cities of Arnhem and Nijmegen in the east are just a stone's throw apart and make the perfect weekend break destination for those looking for something a bit different.

I travelled to these hidden gems by P&O overnight ferry from Hull to Rotterdam, boarding on Thursday evening and immediately settling into my surprisingly spacious en-suite cabin.

As I enjoyed a fabulous meal in one of the ship's two restaurants and then settled down to watch the live shows, it was easy to forget I had even set sail and was cruising towards Holland.

After a good night's sleep, I woke to find the ferry docked in the Europort terminal where a shuttle bus took me to the station where I caught a train to Arnhem and Nijmegen, soon to become immersed in Dutch history.

Next year marks the 60th anniversary of the Operation Market Garden. Set between September 17 and 27, 1944, its objective was to secure the bridges near Eindhoven, Grave, Nijmegen and Arnhem which were held by the Germans.

Field marshal Montgomery hoped the North German plain would be conquered and the Second World War would be brought to an end by Christmas 1944. As part of the first phase, the largest airborne landing operation was launched and thousands of parachutists landed and advanced towards Arnhem. Their task was to keep the three big river and five waterway crossings open for the ground forces who would finish the operation known as Garden.

The Battle of Arnhem has become famous for its near success and was captured on screen in the film A Bridge Too far.

Only the battalion under the command of Lieutenant Colonel John Frost managed to reach the Rhine bridge at Arnhem. They bravely tried to hold off the German troops for four days but had to retreat when their ammunition and other supplies failed to arrive. The failure of Operation Market Garden meant the occupation lasted until the spring of 1945 when they were eventually liberated by the Allies.

I visited the National Liberation Museum 1944-1945 which is set on the field where the British, American and Polish troops actually landed.

It is built in the shape of a parachute and brings the history of that time back to life. By the use of smells, interactive presentations, models, photographs and film footage, it tells the tale of the liberation of Nijmegen. There is also a moving Roll of Honour of all the Allied forces who died between D Day and May 8 1945.

I also went to the Airbourne Museum Hartenstein which also commemorates the battle of Arnhem.

Used by the Allied forces as a base during the war, the large house is filled with photographs, film footage, displays and memorabilia from the war. In one of the cabinets, I spotted a medical card for an injured soldier, on it was written G Entwistle, Sharples, Bolton.

There were English speaking guides at all of the museums and I couldn't help but be captivated by their enthusiasm and wealth of knowledge.

During the bombardments, large parts of Nijmegen and Arnhem were destroyed by the Germans and the scars still remain. Climb the Eusebius tower near the bridge in Arnhem and you can see from the sky the scale of the damage caused. Among the modern buildings, there are a small number of red roof properties, the only ones to escape the bombs.

As I walked around the city, there were numerous plaques on buildings, signifying where people lost their lives. Plans are already underway to commemorate the anniversary of Operation Market Garden. Every year thousands of veterans return with their families to the area where so many of their comrades lost their lives.

But there is more to Arnhem and Nijmegen than history.

Surrounded by beautiful countryside, forests and rivers, the two cities are filled with walking routes and cycle paths, making it an ideal area for outdoor activity.

And there is a host of museums and galleries to visit. I walked around the Kroller-Muller Museum near Arnhem which has a vast collection of Van Gogh paintings. Outside in the grounds, there is a sculpture garden filled with statues and quite bizarre pieces of modern art.

The museum is set in the national park, the Hoge Veluwe, which stretches for miles and miles. The Country Estate at Avegoor, a luxurious hotel with its own leisure facilities where I stopped for a short break, is situated in the heart of the park.

During the weekend, I also popped into the Museum Het Valkhof Art and Archaeology in Nijmegen. With its collection of ancient relics from the time when the city was the largest Roman town in the Netherlands and modern art paintings, it brings together the old and the new.

The Dutch Open Air Heritage museum was one of my favourites. There are a host of farmhouses and windmills where you can experience life through the decades. The trams have also been restored and take you around the park. There is a quaint row of houses dating from the 50s, 60, and 70s with authentic fixtures and fittings.

And after roaming the city on foot, what could be a better way to relax than pampering yourself in the splendid Scandic Hotel Sanadome?

This luxurious hotel is set in its own leafy grounds a short walk from the centre of Nijmegen. I couldn't resist the opportunity to take a dip in the spa and the outdoor pool which was heated to 35 degrees. It had snowed briefly during my visit and it was quite an experience to swim outside in the freezing cold as the ground around me looked like it had been covered in a dusting of icing sugar.

The atmosphere is very relaxing and the hotel is popular with Dutch people who just want to escape their busy lives for a day or two.

On my second night I stayed in the NH Rijnhotel and my room overlooked the River Rhine. The rooms were of a very high standard and the a la carte restaurant was superb. I caught the ferry back to Hull on Sunday evening and decided to try out the a la carte menu in the Quatre Saisons restaurant.

After a wonderful meal and a few glasses of wine, I retired to my cabin, fell straight asleep and woke up when we arrived in Hull. Relaxed, refreshed and with a better understanding of the real Holland.