EGYPT is an awe-inspiring place. Bequeathed an astounding legacy of history by the ancient rule of the Pharaoh kings, the country boasts archaeological treasures of jaw-dropping beauty and size.

When it comes to having the hairs on the back of your neck stand up, few sights rival the first glimpse of the three Pyramids at Giza, the first being the only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World still standing.

Our Egyptian guide and fellow Pink Floyd fan, Ahmed Kasem, knew exactly how to make the moment one that I shall never forget.

With Floyd's 'Shine On You Crazy Diamond' ringing out in our coach, Ahmed recalled how 100,000 men toiled for 30 years to build the first of the monuments, the Great Pyramid of the Pharaoh Cheops, 4,500 years ago.

Then, through the tops of Cairo's mass of shops and apartment blocks, we caught sight of them, the fierce midday sun making the towering triangles look like shimmering, mystical mirages.

"Man fears time, yet time fears the pyramids," cried Ahmed at their sight, repeating the centuries-old Arab proverb.

The three pyramids, built with enough stone to construct a 10-foot wall around France, were indeed a magical sight.

Inside, the main shaft leading to the burial chamber of King Khufu was so narrow, steep and claustrophobic it was clear why entry had been limited to 150 either side of noon, but the experience was easily worth the effort -- even if the calf muscles took a day to recover.

One wonders what treasures may still remain buried and undiscovered, such is the awesome scale of the place.

We were given a clue to the possibilities at the Egyptian Museum, a short distance away on the banks of the River Nile, where Tutankhamun's priceless treasures were laid out in all their dazzling glory, surrounded by countless other pharaonic relics.

With so much to see and comprehend it would be easy to become daunted by the place, but our knowledgeable guide made sure that was never going to be the case.

We found ourselves running round the museum as closing time approached, trying to feast our eyes on as many of the archaeological treasurers as possible, devouring every ancient tale and fable.

The visit helped make sense of the Valley of the Kings and the colossal temples of Hatchepsut, Edfu, Kom Ombo and Philae that we had already visited as part of our whirlwind eight-day trip.

Few places in the world provoke more debate among archaeologists and historians than Egypt, and the country has once again been thrust into the limelight after claims that the mummy of Nefertiti -- one of the greatest queens who ever lived -- has been identified.

Her body was apparently discovered, along with two other mummies, in a hidden cell within the tomb of Pharaoh Amenhotep II more than 3,000 years ago.

A recent Discovery Channel programme revealed how British archaeologist Jo Fletcher and her team spent 12 years piecing together historical facts before making the breakthrough.

Finding Nefertiti has been something of a holy grail for Egyptologists and is certainly the biggest find since Howard Carter pushed open the door leading to Tutankhamun's riches in 1922.

Hollywood would struggle to find a more remarkable and fitting location for such a discovery.

As we found out for ourselves, the tomb of Amenhotep II -- a stone's throw from that of Tutankhamun -- is surrounded by classic Indiana Jones hallmarks, with deep atmospheric passageways and bottomless shafts leading to a magnificent six-pillared room adorned with paintings of the gods.

The smell of history within the tomb and elsewhere in the Valley of the Kings is matched by the debilitating 40-degree heat which makes sightseeing tough going -- and explains why most holidaymakers are adults.

Indeed, the lack of children is probably the reason why the relaxing Nile cruises have proved a consistently popular getaway over the years.

Our luxury transport came in the shape of the five-star MS Grand Palm, one of four impressive floating hotels in the Grand Cruises fleet that make the scenic trips from Luxor to Aswan and back all-year round.

Our four-night cruise was followed by three memorable nights in the Red Sea resort of Hurghada, staying in the luxurious Grand Resort Hotel.

It's an ideal base from which to experience some of the best scuba-diving and snorkelling in the world. It's also a chance to stop off at some Robinson Crusoe-type islands, complete with golden sands and turquoise-blue waters.

Hurghada is so far removed from the cultural hotspots of Luxor and the madness of Cairo that it felt like being in another country.

And that's the beauty of Egypt -- a truly fascinating holiday destination, littered with the gems of past civilisations.

TRAVELFACTS

Chris Wiltshire was a guest of Panorama Holidays' (tel: 08707 582 518) which offers a seven-night Nile cruise and seven nights at the Siva Grand Beach Hotel from £755 per person, (two sharing twin deluxe cabin on a full board basis on the ship, and a twin room on all inclusive basis at the hotel). This price applies for holidays between Nov 28 and Dec 11 and includes flights, transfers, accommodation, and excursions while cruising, guided by a qualified Egyptologist.

A seven night cruise costs from £589 between Nov 28 and Dec 11, based on two sharing a deluxe cabin, with flights, transfers, full board accommodation, and excursions. Seven nights at Hotel Grand Resort starts from £395 from Nov 28.

Flights are available ex-Manchester to Luxor.

Contact your local ABTA travel agent for more on holidays to Egypt