SINCE the fall of communism, Prague has become one of the top weekend destinations for tourists keen to soak-up its world class beer and Bohemian elegance.

But, for Gareth Tidman, it is the city's musical heritage that sets it apart from its European rivals.

There are many good reasons for visiting Prague. If having the world's finest beer on tap doesn't appeal then there's always the spell-binding Bohemian beauty of its elegant streets, winding river and historic buildings.

And then there's the music. To stroll through the centre of the Czech Republic's capital is to uncover an abundance of recitals, performances and concerts all staged in the enchanting surroundings of marvellous churches and grandiose public buildings.

Over the centuries music has played a key role in emergence of the city as a key cultural centre and a rival to Vienna as the capital of classicism. This is, after all, the place for which Mozart turned his back on the Austro-Hapsburg capital to premier his opera Don Giovanni in 1787 as a thankyou for the rapturous reception the people of the city had given to his previous work.

Music was central to the protest of the Sixties, and the Velvet Revolution that finally defeated the grey, stifling forces of Stalinism in 1989, when western groups such as the Beatles and home grown bands, like the Plastic People of the Universe, became a symbol of resistance.

Since then, the city's arts scene has flourished like never before.

From the Dixieland jazz groups that enliven the city's focal point of Charles Bridge to the golden-crested National Theatre, modern Prague doesn't so much bombard the senses as woo them courteously before leading them into a dizzying waltz.

It is more than a decade since my first visit to Prague which came just a few years after the popular uprising and fall of Communism.

Today, much is different and yet nothing has changed.

The more touristy parts of town maybe cluttered with stag parties from Barnsley to Basildon, and there are less Skoda cars filling the on-street parking bays.

But arriving in Prague is still the tantalising experience as it was on my first venture behind the fallen iron curtain in the early Nineties.

Untouched by fire, war or natural disaster (bar the odd flood) for more than 600 years, the city wears its history on its sleeve - or rather in its matrix of enigmatic back streets and enchanting public squares.

And for those of a musical disposition, Prague still holds the same allure that so enraptured Wolfgang Amadeus all those years ago.

The city has four major Opera Houses - all of which are free of both the snobbishness and exorbitant prices which make art form a pursuit only for the wealthier classes at home.

To see Pucinni's La Boheme performed at the historic and opulent setting of the Czech National Theatre I paid just 250 Czech crowns (around £5).

And warnings that only the smartest attire would be accepted by the Opera-crazy citizens of Praha proved unfounded as a group of teenage Czech goths settled into their seats behind our party.

The people of the Republic take a great deal of pride in the Narodni divadlo, as it is known locally, and consider it to be a jewel in the crown of their nation.

They ought to, because they paid for it - not once, but twice.

Just weeks after opening in 1881, the building - built at huge expense by donations from Czechs of all classes - was gutted by fire. Distraught but undeterred, its creators again went cap in hand to the people

and within two years the lavish opera house was rebuilt.

This time it was fronted with triumphant allegorical figures and inside every square inch was filled with paintings and sculptures by the country's leading artists.

The capital's other leading music venue, Stavovske divaldo or Estate's Theatre, has no less a history.

It was here that Don Giovanni was famously premiered to an ecstatic audience and today it still puts on a mixture of opera, ballet and straight theatre.

Perhaps the best time for music lovers to visit the Bohemian capital is during the Prague Spring Festival held to commemorate the death of the nationalist Czech composer Bedrich Smetana.

A series of performances are held between May 12 and June 2 when the festival traditionally culminates in a rendition of Beethoven's Ninth Symphony.

Tickets usually sell out fast but hopefuls should contact the box office on 00 420 257 312 547 or visit www.festival.cz

However, concerts are held throughout the year with free entry to many of the smaller venues.

For those who wish to continue the music theme 24 hours a day - and can afford it - there is no better place to stay than at the Hotel Aria in the affluent Mala Strana district.

This fine hotel comes with its own musical director to recommend tunes from an extensive CD and DVD library to help guests unwind after a hard day's sight-seeing.

Each of the 52 rooms have also been decorated in homage to stars of rock, classical and jazz music - such as Louis Armstrong, Elvis Presley and Prague's most famous composer Antonin Dvorak - whose music is featured on a multi-media and personal computer system in each of the rooms.

There is even a 30 seat private screening room for guests to view musical performances from the hotel's archives.

With prices starting at 325 euros (£217) a night for a double room, the Aria might not suit everyone but, for those on a tighter budget, inexpensive accommodation can be found across the River Vltava in the popular Stare Mesto (Old Town).

Try the Betlem Club on Betlemske Namesti, visit www.betlemclub.cz or the Cloister Inn on Konviktska www.cloister-inn.com for a cheaper deal.

Getting to Prague is now easier than ever with Czech airlines now operating 13 flights a week from Manchester.

Return fares start at £89 including taxes and the flying time is one hour and 50 minutes.

For reservations contact 0870 4443 747 or visit www.czechairlines.co.uk

To book a room at the Hotel Aria go to www.ariahotel.net

Contact your local ABTA travel agent for details on holidays to Prague.