EVER wondered what it might be like to eat in the restaurant of a renowned celebrity chef?

Would the experience really be something special . . . worthy of their celebrity status?

Andrew Nutter is such a chef whose regular appearances on television have elevated him into the ever increasing ranks of the well known.

And his restaurant, Nutters, is situated on Edenfield Road, Norden, in Rochdale. It is a treat that is well worth the drive out.

The traditional stone building is beautifully decorated with a welcoming bar leading into a spacious traditionally decorated restaurant.

A warm and friendly atmosphere envelops you as soon as you walk through the door. The staff are very friendly and knowledgeable about the menu.

Ordering is done in the bar area, where bite-sized delicious appetisers are served -- a free taste of the kind of delights in store.

The menu regularly changes and is terrifically varied.

There is a lunch menu, a Sunday menu and in the evenings the choice between a general or gourmet menu.

The gourmet menu, at £32 per person, is ideal if you are indecisive or the sort of person who always worries that your eating companions are going to end up with something better than you.

It allows Nutter to choose for you and comprises six wonderfully varied courses -- pretty much a banquet, offering a taste of almost everything.

However, on the night my husband and I attended, the pull of individual dishes was too great and we decided to do our own ordering.

There was a choice of eight starters, and these ranged from such delights as the roast baby fillets of lamb with a hot German potato salad served with a fresh mint and sherry vinaigrette (£7.20) to the melting rosary goats cheese, roast red pepper and mango and basil roulade with a mango and cucumber raita (£5.95). There was a creamy corn kernal and celeriac soup with sun blushed tomato chunks (£4.20), the local delights of the crispy Bury black pudding wontons served with a confetti of vegetables (£6.40), and the Nutters smoked salmon and red onion latke with capers and lime sour cream (£6.50). I could go on . . .

I chose the crispy duck fritters scented with citrus fruit served with a caramelised shallot confit (£6.50). It was absolutely delicious. The duck was crispy and tasty and its accompaniments complemented it perfectly. My husband's herb crusted fillet of brill with designer troffiette salad served with a wild mushroom dressing (£6.80) was appreciated with just as much enthusiasm.

The main course presented a similar kind of "what to choose" dilemma. Prices ranged from £14.80 for the poached cornfed chicken supreme scented with white truffle served with melody of roasted aubergines and potato pearls, and the roast cod drizzled with a lemon grass oil served with smoked haddock fritters and a chervil and lime sauce, through to £16.95 for the medallions of lamb with a creamy cep risotto served with a fricasse of shitaki mushroom and parmesan wafer. I chose the lamb which almost melted in the mouth.

My husband's fillet of beef was topped with a melting rocket pesto and served with a black olive roesti and sun blushed tomato salsa (£16.75). Again his dish met with the same approval.

The beauty of this restaurant is that while the food looks good and is presented in delightful fashion, this is not at the expense of the portions, which are generous. This aside, I still managed to sample one of the desserts, at £5.50 on the evening menu. After much deliberation I chose the chocolate brownie torte with a liquid chocolate centre. It was as wonderful as it sounds! The light slightly crisp brownie torte topping gave way to the most delicious warm chocolate liquid. It came with a refreshing portion of ice cream and sauce drizzled around the plate. My husband finished with a speciality liqueur coffee (£4) -- choosing a generous Drambui mix.

Overall, the meal came to £60.10 which included one lime and soda and a pint of lager from the bar.

Yes, the meal was slightly more expensive than average, but boy it was worth every penny. This was special, and I have no doubt that in a similar London based establishment, prices would have wandered well above our reach.

The lunch menu offers similar dishes at slightly cheaper prices, and the Set Sunday Lunch Menu with a more limited choice, looks to be great value with free courses (plus coffee and petit fours) priced at £19.99 per person.

Smoking is allowed in the bar section and there are no steps into the restaurant, making it easier for disabled access.

The beauty of Nutters is that the dishes served are imaginative and surprising, mixing a variety of tastes. Yet nothing is too outlandish, the flavours are delicate and the overall result is excellent.

HOW TO GET THERE:

Take the M66 to the Ramsbottom. Turn right off slip road towards Ramsbottom/Edenfield. Carry straight on along main road until reaching a mini roundabout, signposted for Rochdale (extreme right). Follow the road up and Nutters is further up the road on the left.

Quality of food...****

Menu... ****

Service... ****

Value for Money... ****

Atmosphere... ****

Overall Rating... ****