IT might only be 50 minutes by ferry from the crowded beaches of Tenerife but stepping on to La Gomera feels like entering a different world.

While the hordes head for the party spots of Playa de las Americas, just 25 miles away, this imposing lump of volcanic rock rises from the sea to offer an altogether more tranquil air.

There's little point being in a rush. While the island measures only 15 miles across, it takes a long time to get anywhere.

The 40-minute bus ride "around the corner" from the port of San Sebastian to our base at Santa Ana offers spectacular views of craggy mountain valleys along the winding roads.

But the whole point of this destination is that it offers a retreat from the bustle of everyday life - a chance to take your foot off the throttle and relax.

A full day bus tour of this Canarian gem gives an insight into the way its inhabitants have lived through hardship.

The Berber settlers of 3,000 BC headed for the valleys which collect just enough moisture to grow trees and other plants.

As the bus winds up the steep roads criss-crossing the mountainside, you see the terrazas they painstakingly carved into the rock at seemingly inaccessible locations. Using them, the islanders would plant crops to eke out a living.

So remote were some of these places that the settlers developed the language "Silbo".

By sending a series of whistles echoing across the valleys, they communicated anything from who was expected at the village dance to the whether the laundry needed doing.

The language was dying out until a few years back when the island's government made it compulsory in schools. Now it is making a comeback.

Our apartments, el Balcon de Santa Ana, provided the perfect place for exploring what La Gomera has to offer.

Facilities included tennis courts, bowling greens, sauna and three pools.

A short drive away is Tecina Golf Club, one of the world's most beautiful courses. Golfers play almost continually downhill, taking in views of the Atlantic, while the groundsmen have worked miracles with the colourful landscaping. A little further down the road is Playa Santiago, a small town with several bars and restaurants including La Cuevita - or "little cave" - a fascinating eatery created in a cliff-face cavity where diners can try local delicacies such as squid in ink.

A far cry from the food on the Spanish Costas, fine examples of Gomeran cuisine can be found. A remnant of Franco's regime, the Parador project was devised as a means of financing the restoration of historic buildings by turning them into top-notch hotels.

Today, the Parador in San Sebastian offers delicate pates, spicy and succulent octopus, along with local cheeses for starters.

Mains include fish steaks, while I opted for another local favourite of goat in garlic and almond sauce.

Set in beautiful grounds with rooms decked with portraits and lined with oak furniture, this manor house certainly retains the opulence the former Spanish dictator encouraged.

I have to admit, though, the silver service was a bit much for a simple lad like me. Perhaps the true Gomeran lifestyle is better reflected in the cafes up the road, where locals sit sipping beer as slowly as they like.

La Gomera has a superb year-round climate, rarely dropping below 20C, perfect for messing about on the water.

You can spot 21 species of dolphin, the Atlantic bottlenose being the most regular visitor, and - if you're really lucky - you might even spot a sperm or minke whale.

After a relaxing day on the water, it somehow seemed wrong to head back to the bustle of Tenerife for the flight home.

Back home, Chorley New Road had never seemed so busy . . .