THE contrasting cities of Glasgow and Edinburgh offer so much for those in search of outstanding architecture, history, shopping, walking or a vibrant nightlife. Andrew Mosley combined them all

GLASGOW is more obviously a city of contradictions than Edinburgh, but both take you on a journey that twists and turns.

We were pleasantly surprised to secure train tickets from Bolton to Glasgow, including a transfer to Edinburgh and back home for just £37.50 each.

The journey was pleasant, taking just over three hours, and we walked from Glasgow Central to our base, Malmaison in West George Street in around 10 minutes.

As is always the case with Malmaison, the hotel is stylish, both inside and out. A former Greek Episcopal Church, it has largely kept its exterior, which is refreshing. The interior is cool, dark and perfect for a relaxing drink, a cocktail or a laid-back evening meal.

Our room, based in the original church-part of the building, was extremely comfortable, tucked away from the hub of the bar and the restaurant.

After check-in, we made our way to the posher West End, where we visited the incredible Kelvingrove Park and house, in which you can get a flavour of Scottish art and history, as well as view the ever-changing exhibitions, or simply take a walk around the fantastic gardens.

We trekked along the Dumbarton Road and Argyle Street areas, taking in the famous and much-recommended Lismore pub — in which folk bands play throughout the afternoon and evening — before walking back to the hotel along the River Clyde.

At dinner, where we chose from the Homegrown and Local menu, featuring the finest Glaswegian produce, the friendly and knowledgeable waiting staff not only advised us which wine to have with our meals but told us of the best places to go in Glasgow, of which there were plenty.

For the excellent meal my partner had crab and watercress souffle to start, with pork fillet with blue cheese crust and celery mash for main, while I had artichoke pivithier with spinach and walnuts, and we shared bitter chocolate tart for pudding.

On day two we took to the shops, walking along Sauchiehall Street and Buchanan Street, just a stone's throw from the hotel. For those who think of the grimy Glasgow of old, this is a vibrant and exciting city centre and the shopping is fantastic. We broke off for a drink in the Arches by the railway station, before getting changed and out for an evening, which included a Mexican meal at the fabulous and extremely good value Driftwood in St Georges Road and a few drinks in some old-style pubs in the East End, which offer quite a contrast to the other side of the city.

The next morning, on completing the one hour journey from Glasgow, we thought Edinburgh had something to live up to. It had no trouble.

Hotel du Vin, set in a great location on the site of a former lunatic asylum and neighbouring the Bedlam Theatre, was stunning: tranquil, stylishly decorated, with a buzzing modern restaurant and bar area and 47 beautifully-appointed rooms, you would be hard pushed to find a nicer place to stay.

From the hotel manager and reception staff to the incredibly knowledgeable waiters and sommelier, everyone makes you feel at home, offering valuable information and advice.

Our suite had the most comfortable bed imaginable, a free-standing roll-top bath in the room itself, a ‘monsoon’ shower and a CD/DVD player.

It is situated just off the graveyard which houses the world's most loyal dog, Greyfriars Bobby, and is not far from Edinburgh University.

We wandered up to the splendid castle but didn't go in (£12, you see) and decided to walk down the cobbled Royal Mile which, when you can see past the thousands of tourists, gives you a sense of the splendid architecture on offer throughout this beautiful city. We had a look around the captivating People's Museum (free entry) and carried on down to have a look at Holyrood House and the unconventionally-designed Scottish Parliament, to which entry is also free and is definitely worth a look.

The Museum of Scotland could take you half-a-day to look around and offers incredible views of the city from its rooftop gardens, while many of the lively bars have music throughout the day.

We enjoyed a lovely evening meal in the hotel, including asparagus with poached egg and hollandaise sauce, Niçoise risotto and a smoked haddock cassoulet with Montgomery cheddar crust, washed down with a lovely bottle of oaked chardonnay. No pudding required!

On our second day we walked out to the Port of Leith, which has been substantially regenerated, and features the Royal Yacht Britannia, taking in the historic monuments on Calton Hill on the way. The views are fantastic, but not as amazing as from Arthur's Seat, which we struggled up to the following day, through a howling gale and rain.

One of the highlights of our trip was the award-winning Literary Pub Tour, for which Clart and McBrain, brilliantly portrayed by two actors (one just back from playing Macbeth in Los Angeles), led us round the wynds, courtyards and famous pubs of the old and new towns while arguing the legacy of Scottish writers and downing a few beers. It's well worth an evening of your time and more can be found at www.edinburghliterarypubtour.co.uk All in, Glasgow and Edinburgh make for an excellent twin city break.

Malmaison Glasgow, 278 West George Street, Glasgow, G2 4LL. Tel: 0141 572 1000, email: glasgow@malmaison.com, www.malmaison-glasgow.com Hotel du Vin & Bistro, 11 Bristo Place, Edinburgh, EH1 1EZ. Tel: 0131 247 4900 www.hotelduvin.com/edinburgh