Fayre enough!

This is no criticism and is not surprising as it is a Brewers Fayre, where all the eateries appear intended to be more or less the same as other, well, Brewers Fayres.

It is situated off the A6 near junction four of the M61, and there were sweeping views of the motorway from our table, although, happily, no road noise, thanks no doubt to the double glazing.

I visited The Watergate early on Wednesday evening with my mother. The spacious car park was two thirds full and most of the tables occupied when we entered.

We seated ourselves at one of the few spare tables in the smoking area, then started thumbing through the menu. Typically, this restaurant is one of those where you get your table number and order at the bar.

Apart from the standard menu we both selected a starter of carrot and coriander soup (£2.15 each), while for the main courses, my mother decided on Salmon and prawn Alexandria (£8.50), while I plumped for the Smothered Sirloin Steak (£11.50).

The soup came within seven minutes of being ordered in a bowl slotted into a cute little wooden breadboard, complete with fresh, moist rolls.

It tasted delicious, and my mother murmured her approval.

After completing our starters, I was a little worried they would come rushing straight out with our main courses, bearing in mind how quick out of the blocks they had been with the soup, but I needn't have worried.

There was a nice 20 minute gap, while we chatted and the staff went about their business before the main courses arrived.

My mother's main dish was a fillet of salmon topped with prawns, smothered (a favourite word of Brewers Fayre menu authors) in Hollandaise, asparagus and broccoli sauce served with potatoes and carrots.

My sirloin was, once again, smothered in tomato sauce and melted cheese, served with chips, peas, tomatoes and mushrooms.

Once again, mother was highly staisfied with her dish, even if it was a little light of the much hyped asparagus.

Mine, too, was good value without being spectacular, which in all fairness is the probable objective of the chef who produced it

And there's the rub. Restaurants like this are ideal if you want to know exactly what to expect and get precisely what you pay for -- nothing more, nothing less, and certainly nothing particularly unusual.

"But," I hear you bawling, "you weren't dining at Jamie Oliver's place."

That's correct. My only observation is that the specials board should give the cook or chef the opportunity to do at least one or two dishes a little bit left-of-the-field and a little less culinary karaoke.

Anyway, I digress. Mother and I were unable to find room for a sweet, but there appeared to be a wide selection of desserts on offer.

These included Caramel Apple Betty (£2.99), Chocolate Challenge (£4.99), Mixed Berry Crumble (£3.10), Ginger sponge (£2.99), and Jam Roly Poly Cake (£2.99), which was served with hot custard.

Our total bill, including a pint of lager for me and a medium dry sherry for my mother, came to a reasonable £28.94.

The service was friendly and attentive, and the interior was tidy and -- without wishing to labour the point -- typically Brewers Fayre.

Access was extremely easy for my disabled mother -- all on ground level -- and there are disabled car parking spaces near the front door, although it would be nice if people who were not disabled did not park in them.

This was a reasonably good meal out, good value for money, without being mind-blowing.

The Watergate, Watergate Drive, Over Hulton, Bolton

Tel: 01204 650955

Star rating: H H H