WITH a mixture of civilised style, elegance and a hint of nostalgia, afternoon tea is something that for many epitomises what is best about the English lifestyle.

It is the era of village policemen, red telephone boxes and Jeeves and Wooster that many think of when contemplating the meal.

Walking into London's Savoy Hotel, without a butler I hasten to add, the hustle and bustle of the 24-hour city evaporated as I entered a scene from the 1930s.

The chandeliers, the pianist playing Cole Porter numbers, and just the grandness of the room all add to the feeling that somehow you have been transported into a bygone age.

My mother and I were escorted to the settee, it is a settee and not a sofa, by the maitre'd and then a flurry of waiters began to serve one of the most traditional teas in the world.

First came teapots and strainers and then the beautifully presented food, which almost looks too good to eat . . . almost.

Unused to such grandeur, I began to pick up the pot and pour the finely blended tea, but was put into my place by the waiter who politely told me off for daring to do his job for him.

Because, when one goes to the Savoy, you drink, you eat.

Everything else is carried out with pomp and ceremony by the deferential, impeccably mannered, staff.

Served on silver trays, the food, made on the premises by pastry chef Robert Hope, was layered in three sections.

The first were delicious finger sandwiches with a variety of fillings although amazingly, cucumber -- something long associated with this type of affair -- was not part of the menu. Anyone disappointed by this would, however, be able to have some made up at the blink of an eye.

Personally I find them rather bland and was happy to tuck into a freshly baked variety of breads with ham, salmon and egg, to name but a few in the selection.

Further up the tray, the second section was made up of a gorgeous selection of French-style fruit pastries, cakes and sumptuous chocolate bites, which melted away in your mouth.

As with the sandwiches, these can be eaten quickly, but the idea is to sit back and enjoy the array of flavours, filling up gradually over tea and conversation.

Nestling on the top were scones, which were simply the best I have ever tasted, and I have eaten a few in my time.

Served with the customary dollops of strawberry jam and clotted cream, they were firm on the outside, with a light and fluffy centre that evaporated when you bit into them.

As you eat, in the centre of the room, a pianist plays a selection of popular tunes from the '30s and '40s.

Never more than background music, he trotted out such tunes as Georgia on My Mind and Spanish Harlem. They added wonderfully to the ambience

Oddly, he did not play Putting on the Ritz. Can't think why.

While the Savoy remains one of the more traditional tearooms in London, even this traditional establishment is not impervious to modernisation.

Gone are the days when men had to wear a tie to get in -- although it was striking that many, including myself still chose to do so.

Anything else just wouldn't seem quite right.

Situated on the bank of the Thames, in the centre of the city, the Savoy is a stone's throw away from top London tourist attractions including the London Eye, Covent Garden and the Houses of Parliament. Afternoon tea is served daily from 3pm onwards and often there are tea dances where you can waltz and tango away to your heart's content.

At £24 per person during the week and £27 at weekends, you may think it is too pricey.

But the good things in life never come cheap.

Personally, I think that tea at the Savoy is a luxury that should be indulged at least once . . . it is a treat you can really enjoy and will never forget.

I certainly won't.

FACTFILE

Tea at the Savoy costs £24 during the week and £27 at the weekend.

It is available from 3pm every day and smart, casual dress is required for entry.

How to get There: From Bolton travel to London. The Savoy is on the Strand. The nearest tube station is Charing Cross on the Northern and Bakerloo lines.