La Scala, Chorley Road, Westhoughton - DINING out during a killer diet is not always the best way to appreciate a restaurant.

But, well, a glutton's gotta do what a glutton's gotta do!

Certainly, our anniversary meal at La Scala was no hardship at all, and I am now very much in danger of being drummed out of WeightWatchers forever.

The restaurant is an elegant looking building with its own large car park adjoining. Entry is up steps, but there is also a ramp by the entrance and a large part of the restaurant is on one level.

The interior is as tasteful and discreetly decorated as the outside. Doric columns sound a bit naff, but are absolutely right in this themed decor. Wooden floors, warm wood furniture and low-key colours add to the pleasant atmosphere.

There is a comfortable lounge to one side for a pre-meal drink, and a dedicated no-smoking extension. We have dined in there before and it is just as nice as the main restaurant.

It was closed on this mid-week occasion, but we were assured a smoke-free place and our alcove table was ideal. Another plus is that there is a decent amount of space between tables.

The menu at La Scala is extensive, but along with an array of pasta and pizza dishes are some more unusual meat, fish and vegetarian choices. There is also a separate specials' list of a dozen starters and the same number of main courses.

Dining is not particularly cheap, but you get what you pay for, and what you get here is quality.

This was obvious from our starter choices. My husband went for chicken livers on the specials' menu (£4.90) which involved a medium-sized dish of melt-in-the mouth livers, onions and peppers in a rich sauce. He was very happy with this, and it certainly smelled delicious.

I had gone for one of my favourite soups minestrone (£3) which I was told was the soup of the day. The large bowl of soup that came did not look much like minestrone, more like a good vegetable soup. But, it was very warming on a cold, wet evening and you couldn't fault the taste or its filling value.

For the main course, the fillet steak with Dolcelatte and port (£12.90) on the specials' menu had caught my husband's eye.

His stomach was equally satisfied when a large piece of steak -- cooked medium rare as requested -- topped by an impressive piece of the Italian cheese was presented in a rich gravy.

Mangetout, carrots, sweetcorn and potato wedges were served with it, not too many to overface, but enough to impress.

I fancied a pasta dish, so went for fusilli alla matriciana (£5.80) which proved to be a big dish of the short twist pasta coated in a delicious spicy tomato sauce, with onions and strips of bacon.

This proved to be a first-rate choice and I thoroughly enjoyed it, the sauce and tangy bacon blending well with the succulent pasta.

In spite of earlier resistance to the idea of having a sweet, we were both interested in the well-presented dessert menu.

My husband opted for a wonderful concoction of choux pastry, cream, chocolate and mandarin orange, plus ice cream, while I chose a mousse cheesecake with cream.

Both choices were spot-on. I can't tell you much about the dish opposite me (no, not my husband) because I glanced away and it had disappeared, so it must have been good!

My sweet was light, smooth, topped with fruits of the forest, and was a total delight.

Throughout the meal we had rounds of drinks, Diet Coke then a glass of medium white wine (£1.50) for me, and pints of bitter (£2.40) for my better half.

There were plenty of friendly staff around, and we didn't have to wait for anything we needed even though the place was pleasantly full.

We had booked beforehand for a mid-evening time, and it is probably always worth booking ahead. There were families, pensioners and young couples dining, and several obvious regulars happy to revisit.

Our bill came to £42.50, which was acceptable for the amount and quality of what we'd had. So, it's very likely that we, too, shall be joining that band of satisfied regular customers.

Star rating

Quality of food...****

Menu...****

Service...****

Value for money...****

Atmosphere...****

Overall rating...****

How to get there

From Bolton town centre, head along Wigan Road, past Beaumont Road and under the motorway to Chequerbent roundabout. Go right, follow the A6 past the White Horse pub junction, and La Scala is a large building set back on the left just after the next large junction and opposite a church.