WANDERERS fans will find watching football in Istanbul an experience which they will remember for the rest of their lives writes Chris Sudlow

The "Welcome to Hell" banners have been a familiar sight for years, and the threat of violence is never far away, hanmded out by either fans, or police.

For a city straddling Europe and Asia, one of the oldest civilisations in the world, the change of attitude from friendly welcoming to hooligan hate is remarkable.

Fans crowd into stadium hours before a match starts and launch incessant chanting competitions between themselves which leave the eardrums reeling.

There is no respite for the foreign visitors be they players or fans. Stadium announcers even orchestrate the singing and chanting as flares are lit and thrown onto the pitch.

On one visit to watch a match, I remember vividly sitting on a coach held up in one of the huge traffic hold-ups which jam many of the four-lane highways cutting through the city.

A lone pedestrian watched with an amused smirk on his face as visiting fans cheered and chanted abuse at hime. He slowly put his hand into the pocket of his trousers withdrew a flick-knife, opened it and after pointing towards us, slowly drew it across the front of his throat.

For some reason the coach went completely silent . . .

A major security operation took place in Istanbul, when Leeds met Galatasaray in a Uefa cup clash in 2002 after the deaths of two English fans.

More than 2,500 police officers were on duty at the Ali Sami Yen Stadium where the semi-final first leg was played.

Uefa officials decided the game should go ahead despite the deaths of Christopher Loftus and Kevin Speight who were stabbed in violent clashes with Galatasaray fans.

In 1993, Manchester United fans ran into trouble when their side played Galatasaray in Istanbul.

More than 200 fans were arrested and detained, most without any provocation, and many more were denied entry to the stadium.

Those who did get in to the intimidating Ali Sami Yen Stadium - nicknamed Hell by the Turkish fans - found segregation did not offer them much protection from the Galatasaray supporters ,or the riot police.

Manchester United's players were also attacked, with Eric Cantona and former England captain Bryan Robson both hit in the tunnel leading to the dressing rooms.

Several hundred Chelsea fans escaped without trouble from their club's trip to Istanbul for a Champions' League clash with Galatasaray.

Despite a hostile reception for the team, there were few reports of violence and the Londoners came away with a 5-0 victory.

And there were no reports of violence after Liverpool's stunning Champions League victory in Istanbul in May this year.

A journey into hell: One reporter's view of a soccer match in Istanbul